A journal of local escapes

These stones
hold
memories.

Around Tanlay, a narrow lane opens onto another century. A garden brings a writer to mind. A château awakens a memory from the cinema.

Begin the journey ↓
Historic postcard of Tanlay and its canal port
One postcard, one village, a thousand stories.

Tanlay, a general view and the canal port
Historic postcard · date unknown

A letter from Anne, before you set off

Your journey
begins here.

Welcome to Le Point de Vue de Tanlay,

Even before you put down your bags, I invite you to explore the lanes of our Burgundy. Here, a quiet street leads to a château, an old doorway stirs your curiosity, and the canal tempts you to walk a little further.

I imagined this journal as a little box of memories to open before setting off: old postcards, a few stories to read, and places to discover at your own pace. In Tanlay, Tonnerre, Noyers and Ancy-le-Franc, the centuries have left their traces. Sometimes you only need to look up to see them.

You will encounter a queen who built a hospital, the settings of Angélique and, on a longer day trip, the country of Colette. Between visits, leave room for the unexpected too: a lane, a reflection, a pause beside the water.

When you return, our cottages await: somewhere to let the day settle and imagine the next one.

I look forward to welcoming you,
Anne

Take the quieter lanes

Every stop,
a story.

Browse the photographs, choose a village and let its stories guide you.

Historic postcard of Tanlay and its canal port
Historic view · Tanlay and the canal port · photograph by Henry / publisher Chabot · date unknown. · 1 / 5

The journey starts here

Beyond
the postcard.

Arrive in Tanlay without hurrying. Follow the façades, walk beneath the lime trees, then pause beside the two small market halls that frame the square.

Fairs were held here in the sixteenth century. Long before our cameras, this square was already a place of arrivals and encounters. The market halls keep that history close.

Beyond the Petit Château stands the grand Renaissance residence, built on the foundations of an earlier fortress and completed in the seventeenth century. Beside the moat, look twice: the château takes shape in stone, then appears again in the water.

Read on

Tanlay also rewards those who linger beyond its best-known view. The wash-house, streets and canal tell a more everyday story: one of work, departures and homecomings.

An old photograph invites us to look differently. Recognise a roofline, find a familiar perspective, notice what has changed. When you return from your walk, a house you barely noticed before may already seem familiar.

Discover Tanlay's heritage ↗

Tanlay · The square and its fairs

Before suitcases,
there were baskets.

One of the small market halls in Tanlay
The small market hallsModern photograph · Municipality of Tanlay · date not recorded.
Historic postcard of the gates and Petit Château in Tanlay
The village in the pastGates and Petit Château · historic postcard, date unknown. This postcard does not show a market day.

Today, we stop in the square to admire the château. In the past, people might come here to sell, buy and meet those arriving from neighbouring villages.

Tanlay's two symmetrical market halls date from the sixteenth century, when fairs were held in the village. They give the square another meaning: this charming setting was also a place of exchange.

Imagine voices answering one another, baskets set down, news brought by new arrivals. This is an evocation: the sources document the fairs, but do not allow us to reconstruct a particular day or the goods on every stall.

As you pass the pillars, think of the hall as a shelter for work. The grand history of the château and the everyday lives of local people meet within a few steps of the square.

The municipality tells the halls' story ↗

Tanlay and Commissey · The working canal

On the quay,
the world was waiting.

Historic postcard of Commissey canal port, with stockpiles along the quays
Commissey, the canal portThe postcard shows stacks on the bank and several people near the quay. Date unknown · CPArama.

Look closely at the quays: the image preserves a working landscape. On its own, it does not identify the stockpiles' precise contents or destination.

What we see beside the water changes how we read the postcard. Here, the canal is a means of trade, with quays, stockpiles and the work of loading.

The Burgundy Canal carried timber, coal, grain, stone and other materials. Ports connected local production with more distant markets. Cargoes varied from place to place and over time.

Three milestones in this story. By 1826, navigation was open between Laroche-Migennes and Tanlay. The whole canal opened to traffic on 2 January 1833. In Tanlay in 1841, merchants asked for a loading quay wall: the engineer Leblanc drew up the plans. Behind an archival date lies a practical need: a better way to load goods.

In the nineteenth century, boats were towed from the bank, including by horses. The paths we walk today once played a part in the canal's working life.

When you reach these banks, look at the water, then the quay. The quiet of today's walk follows a long history of movement and effort.

Browse views of the canal ↑
Historic postcard of Tanlay and its canal port
Tanlay's port in the pastPhotograph by Henry / publisher Chabot · date unknown.
The Burgundy Canal and the wash-house channel at Commissey in 2012
Another era beside the waterCommissey · 2012 · Pline · CC BY-SA 3.0. These photographs show different locations and viewpoints.

Small messages from the past

Once upon a time,
just nearby.

A name above a shop. A figure at the end of a street. The village is already there, yet the journey is still ahead.

Historic postcard of Tanlay and its canal port
Tanlay, on the edge of departureRoofs cluster above the water. In the postcard, the village seems to be waiting. Today, the canal still invites you to take time for a walk.
Photograph by Henry, Lézinnes · publisher Chabot · date unknown.
Historic postcard of timber-framed houses in Noyers-sur-Serein
Noyers, a street looks back at usTimber frames draw their patterns. A sign preserves a name; a small figure crosses time. Now it is your turn to enter the street and look up.
Historic postcard · date unknown.

Then browse the historic and modern views in the gallery. The angles differ: look for details that echo one another rather than identical framing.

Continue the journey ↑

Noyers-sur-Serein · Life beneath the arcades

Shops, then
a memory from the cinema.

Maison Brandin and the arcades in Noyers on a historic postcard
Maison Brandin and its arcadesHistoric postcard · date unknown · Cartorum ref. 281930.
Covered passage and shops beneath the arcades of Noyers
Beneath the arcadesModern photograph · Bourgogne Tourisme · date not recorded. Different framing from the historic postcard.

Beneath the covered passages, façades tell stories of trade as well as architecture. The postcard preserves a sign and a threshold; the modern photograph shows a passage where life continues.

Noyers also hosted the exterior filming of the Hôtel du Globe in La Grande Vadrouille (1966). Bourvil and Louis de Funès really did perform in front of these houses. The inn's interior and the musical-chairs scene, however, were filmed in a studio: cinema joins places that our memories eventually make into one.

Discover the film locations ↗

Ancy-le-Franc · Two faces of the same town

The château courtyard,
the inn's street.

Historic postcard of the courtyard at Château d'Ancy-le-Franc
The courtyard in the pastHistoric postcard · date unknown · Cartorum ref. 282283.
Modern photograph of the courtyard at Château d'Ancy-le-Franc
The lines of the RenaissanceModern photograph · Château d'Ancy-le-Franc · date not recorded. Different viewpoint from the historic postcard.

The courtyard reveals the Italian ambition of the château designed by Sebastiano Serlio in the sixteenth century: openings answer one another, arcades give the façades their rhythm. Browsing the two views makes you want to walk around it yourself.

Grande-Rue and Hôtel de la Poste in Ancy-le-Franc on a historic postcard
Grande-Rue, Hôtel de la PosteHistoric postcard · date unknown · Cartorum ref. 282430.

In a postcard,
a sign can be enough.

Look away from the château for a moment. In this other postcard, the street, shopfronts and Hôtel de la Poste sign bring the town back to the scale of passers-by.

The document does not tell us the life story of everyone photographed. Yet it preserves their presence. These are also the details we travel to discover: life around the monument.

Women, places and centuries

They left
their mark.

A queen who opened a house to the sick. A château owner whose name belongs to the history of the fairs. A woman of the court who commissioned an unusual château. Around Tanlay, places also preserve the memory of their decisions.

Historic photograph of the west façade of the Hôtel-Dieu in Tonnerre
The Hôtel-Dieu of Tonnerre, Marguerite de Bourgogne's legacy.
Jean-Eugène Durand · date not recorded · MAP · CC BY-SA 4.0.

Tonnerre · 1293

Marguerite de Bourgogne,
the queen who left a shelter.

Her name belongs to the history of crowns. In Tonnerre, it belongs to a place of welcome.

Countess of Tonnerre and Queen of Sicily through her marriage to Charles of Anjou, Marguerite de Bourgogne founded the Hôtel-Dieu in 1293, after she was widowed. The institution welcomed the sick and those in need.

Her decision offers another way of looking at the monument. Its great hall is more than an achievement in building: it answers a need for care and shelter. Behind its dimensions are vulnerable lives for whom a place was made.

During your visit, take a moment to look along the hall. Then remember this woman's name: Marguerite. The place has changed over the centuries; her founding gesture remains visible.

Return to Tonnerre in the gallery ↑
One of the small market halls in Tanlay
Tanlay's small market halls, witnesses to its trading life.
Modern photograph · Municipality of Tanlay · date not recorded.
Historic postcard of the gates and Petit Château in Tanlay
Gates and Petit Château · historic postcard · date unknown.
Cartorum ref. 827697. This document postdates Louise de Montmorency.

Tanlay · Sixteenth century

Louise de Montmorency,
from the château to the village square.

People often come to Tanlay for its château. In the square, two small market halls invite you to discover another part of its story.

Louise de Montmorency owned the Tanlay estate in the sixteenth century. The widow of Gaspard de Coligny, she was the mother of Admiral Gaspard de Coligny and François d'Andelot, whose names are associated with the Wars of Religion and the estate.

Heritage accounts attribute the two small market halls to Louise, following permission from Francis I to establish fairs. Her story thus meets the history of trade and encounters in the square.

Moving from the château gates to the wooden pillars of the halls, the view changes scale. It follows great families, then returns to the village, its comings and goings and its activities. One woman's name links these two worlds.

Continue the story of Tanlay's fairs ↑
Drawing of Louise de Clermont published by Château de Maulnes
Louise de Clermont: an illustration published by Château de Maulnes.
Drawing, not a photograph · artist and date not stated on that page.
Château de Maulnes in the Tonnerrois landscape
Château de Maulnes in its landscape.
Modern photograph © Dominique Déhan · Château de Maulnes · date not recorded.

Maulnes, near Cruzy-le-Châtel · Renaissance

Louise de Clermont,
an ambition with five sides.

A château unlike any other stands in the landscape. To begin understanding it, we must meet Louise.

Countess of Tonnerre and Duchess of Uzès, Louise de Clermont belonged to Catherine de' Medici's circle. Her position at court and her correspondence reveal a woman involved in the political relationships of her time.

In 1566, she and her husband Antoine de Crussol began building Maulnes. The château's pentagonal plan and unusual organisation give visible form to this Renaissance ambition.

Antoine's death in 1573 interrupted construction. The project was never fully completed. This adds something moving to a visit: alongside a remarkable building, we encounter the trace of an imagined future that never entirely came to pass.

In front of Maulnes, hold these two images together: a woman of the court and a bold building. The landscape becomes the beginning of a story.

Discover Maulnes and its history ↗

Those who write,
and those who work.

The journey continues with Colette, who turned her childhood country into literature, and with the women of the wash-houses, whose everyday work also belongs to our shared memory.

Tonnerre · Photographic memories

A century passes.
The stones remain.

Two genuine historic photographs invite us to begin looking differently.

Historic photograph of the west façade of the Hôtel-Dieu in Tonnerre
The façade in the pastJean-Eugène Durand · date not recorded.
Médiathèque de l'architecture et du patrimoine · APMH00011907 · CC BY-SA 4.0.
Sculpted detail at the Hôtel-Dieu in Tonnerre, photographed in 1905
A sculpted detail, 1905Jean-Eugène Durand · Médiathèque de l'architecture et du patrimoine.
APMH00012683 · CC BY-SA 4.0.

In the Tonnerre gallery, a 2012 photograph extends this look at then and now. Viewpoints differ; none of the historic images has been recreated.

Compare the eras ↑

Commissey · Everyday heritage

The voices
the water keeps.

The wash-house and the women who brought such places to life: another story to discover near Tanlay.

Commissey wash-house, its gable and footbridge above the water
Commissey's wash-house · modern photograph, date not recorded.
Photograph: Municipality of Tanlay.

A view from the past

The then-and-now comparison will be completed when a historic photograph of Commissey's wash-house has been identified. The image above is a modern photograph.

At the wash-house,
life in working hands.

Pause beside the water. Imagine the weight of wet linen, hands reddened by the cold, the sound of a washing paddle joining the current.

Commissey's wash-house was built in 1852 on a former branch of the River Armançon. A tiled gallery shelters its stone basin. A stream from the grounds of Tanlay's château feeds it: between château and wash-house, water connects two very different stories.

Before machines, washing clothes took strength and long hours. At wash-houses, some women washed their family's linen; others earned their living from it. They scrubbed, rinsed and wrung it out, then carried away what became even heavier when wet.

These workplaces were also meeting places. We can imagine news exchanged between tasks, a joke, a shared silence. This evocation does not claim to reproduce the words of Commissey's women; it invites us to think of those whose names are seldom carved on monuments.

Today, we come to watch the water. Once, people came to work here. Let us leave room for those hands in our memories of the walk.

A literary evocation of washerwomen's work, without an attributed local testimony. Building history: Regional Heritage Inventory, record IA89001072.

The documented history of the wash-house ↗

Linger over the pictures

The basin
and its surroundings.

The covered basin and pillars of Commissey wash-house
The basin beneath its gallery · photograph published by the Municipality of Tanlay · date not recorded.
The Burgundy Canal and the wash-house channel at Commissey in 2012
The wash-house in its waterside setting · 25 March 2012 · Pline · CC BY-SA 3.0.
Browse the four views in the gallery ↑
Portrait of Colette by Henri Manuel
Colette, portrait by Henri Manuel, early twentieth century.
Wikimedia Commons · listed as public domain.

Saint-Sauveur-en-Puisaye · Beyond 40 km · A separate day trip

The garden
Colette carried
with her.

Born in Saint-Sauveur-en-Puisaye in 1873, Colette grew up in a house and gardens where her mother, Sido, taught her to observe plants, animals and the movements of life.

“I belong to a land that I have left.”Colette · Les Vrilles de la vigne, 1908 · our translation

Her first novels, the Claudine books, appeared under Willy's name. She went on to build her independence as a stage performer, journalist and writer. In La Maison de Claudine and Sido, she returned to the world of childhood.

Follow Colette to her house

Her birthplace and gardens have been restored using her writing and archival documents. A visit brings words and places together. Continue through the village on the “Sur les pas de Colette” trail, then visit the museum dedicated to her.

Before leaving, allow yourself a few minutes without photographs. Notice what moves in the garden. This attention to small things may be the loveliest memory to bring back to Tanlay.

Plan this escape to Puisaye as a separate day trip from Tanlay. Check visiting arrangements and book directly with the house.

Enter Colette's country ↗
Colette's birthplace in Saint-Sauveur-en-Puisaye, seen from the garden
The house recovered through writingMaison de Colette, Saint-Sauveur-en-Puisaye · modern photograph, date not recorded · Maison de Colette.

In 1891, financial difficulties forced Colette's family to leave Saint-Sauveur when she was eighteen. The house lived on in her writing. Restored, it opened to the public in 2016: a place lost in youth became a meeting place for readers.

Tanlay on screen · 1964

You may already
know this château.

In Angélique, marquise des anges, Tanlay's château becomes the home of Joffrey de Peyrac. Michèle Mercier and Robert Hossein star in Bernard Borderie's film.

Today, you can stand before those same stones. Then, one evening, watch the film again. This time, when Tanlay appears, you will be able to say: “We were there.”

The château tells the filming story ↗
Courtyard of Château de Tanlay
Château de Tanlay · 2015 · Jacksoncowes · CC BY-SA 4.0.
This photograph is not a still from the film.

And tomorrow, another walk

Stories
on your doorstep.

A fountain, a wash-house, a reflection beneath a roof. Commissey invites you to look at modest places with the same curiosity as grand monuments.

The women of the wash-house ↑

The gentleness
of the path.

Follow the canal, explore the village, look at the stained glass if the church is open. In Saint-Vinnemer, light accompanies the walk.

Discover Saint-Vinnemer ↗

The practical journal

Choose a walk,
leave time for yourself.

Three ideas for shaping your stay. These suggested outings leave room for visits, pauses and detours.

A pause in Tanlay

The village,
then the château.

  1. Look at the small market halls and explore the village centre.
  2. Discover the château on a guided tour.
  3. Extend your walk towards the canal port.

The château is visited on scheduled guided tours: choose your departure time before planning the walk.

A half-day to make your own

Noyers,
lane by lane.

  1. Enter the old centre and follow the timber-framed houses.
  2. Pass beneath the arcades, then wander towards the Serein.
  3. Add an open workshop or the museum, depending on opening hours.

Keep the photographs in mind: find details in the façades and take time to study the timber frames.

A day in Puisaye

The house,
the village, Colette.

  1. Book a visit to Colette's birthplace.
  2. Walk through Saint-Sauveur in the writer's footsteps.
  3. Visit the Musée Colette, subject to seasonal opening.

Plan this trip separately from the villages close to Tanlay. Allow for travel time and check availability before setting off.

Other stops on the map

What if the weather changes?

Choose an indoor visit according to opening times: Tanlay's château, Ancy-le-Franc's château or a museum. The Ancy-le-Franc website recommends allowing at least 1 hour 30 minutes for a visit. Ask the venue directly before booking if you need information about stairs, pushchairs or accessibility.

Plan your visit to Ancy-le-Franc ↗

Le Point de Vue de Tanlay

Set out to meet a place.
Come back with its story.

Two cottages in Burgundy, with time to discover.

Discover our cottages ↗